Modern Pilgrims Take the Bus

Adam's Peak is "the most famous physical feature of Ceylon ... its surrounding group of mountains called the Wilderness of the Peak, is so extensive in comparison to the bulk of the other mountain groups that it appears to form a nucleus of its own, separate from the others. It is about 7500 ft high and, though it is the second highest peak in the land, its position in relation to the topography is so dominant that it stands out above all others." Also at the top there is huge footprint said to have been left by Adam, Siva, and St. Thomas by the Muslims, Hindus, and Christians respectively.

So we set off with one injured back (not mine), one pair of flipflops (the only shoes I brought), one pair of socks (not mine either) and no hats or gloves despite the temp reputedly dropping to 0 at night, no guide book (too much weight), no plan to speak of, and only the most limited idea of how to get there. In fact our entire plan consisted of each of us believing that the other one seemed calm and unworried so they must know what they are doing. When we discovered this nine hours into a "seven" hour bus journey, the destination of which was a guesthouse we weren't even certain was open, we had a good laugh, which made me feel a little less carsick for about fifteen minutes.

All told it took us about twelve hours each way by bus but, once I accepted that I wouldn't be able to drink anything until we arrived back in Tangalle (no bathroom breaks), the bus trips were amazing. The peak is surrounded by tea plantations and hills that rear-up lifting bare rock crowns toward the sun, the whole thing surrounded by mist looks like a Japanese brush painting. We saw hundreds of huge bats flying over the rice paddies at dusk, they looked from the distance like flocks of birds; towns and Buddha statues; rivers and small cities; crazy traffic and lots of locals. Stopped for lunch on the way up and had the real deal rice and curry which was so hot that it made my lips puffy.

And the climb? Well turns out that flipflops are all the locals wear so I had a very "real" pilgrim experience and while my knees didn't hurt (couldn't crash down, no cushion and no traction) my calves were shaking and sweating like pretty new pledges at a frat kegger. However when my travel buddy asked if I would do it again I said yes, the peak is lovely and the thrill of doing the climb outweighs the pain. Besides the locals have calf muscles to die for. Next time though, I'm calling ahead and going in season so I can see the footprint. Oh didn't I mention? Turns out it was closed. The view was amazing though.